🌄Miyar Valley: A Journey Through Meadows, Rivers, Mischievous Dogs & Changing Skies

Some journeys begin with months of planning. Mine began during a casual conversation over lunch.

After completing my Chhattisgarh jungle trek earlier in 2026, I was already wondering where the next adventure might take me. A friend and I were discussing possible treks for July or August when we decided to phone another friend for suggestions. After considering a few options, we chose the Miyar Valley Trek in the Lahaul region.

At the time, it was simply another destination on the map. I had no idea it would become a journey filled with fragrant flowers, freezing river crossings, playful dogs, unpredictable weather and moments of complete peace among the mountains.

The Journey to Manali

Since the trek was scheduled to begin early on 1 August 2026, we travelled to Chandigarh, as there is no direct flight to Manali, on 30 July and took an overnight journey to Manali. We kept 31 July as a buffer day, giving ourselves time to rest and prepare.

We stayed at Woodstock Inn and spent the day visiting the Hidimba Devi Temple and the nearby place of worship dedicated to Ghatotkach. After an afternoon on Mall Road, we returned early to our room. The next morning, the real journey would begin.

Day 1: Manali to Khanjer, Into the Lahaul Landscape

At 6 AM, we assembled near Beas Bridge and began the drive to Khanjer, our base camp. During the journey, we climbed from approximately 6,730 feet to 11,564 feet, watching the landscape change continuously.

Our group of 24 trekkers was an interesting mix. People had travelled from the UK, Pune and Bangalore, and the group even included several pilots. The youngest member was 22, while the oldest was 61. Leading us were our trek leader, Ankur Roy, and our experienced guide, Gajendra.

We travelled through the Atal Tunnel, passed the Sissu waterfall and crossed villages surrounded by fields of cabbage, cauliflower, potatoes and peas. Apple and apricot trees appeared occasionally along the route.

Before reaching Khanjer, we faced our first adventure. The river near the last village was flowing too strongly for our tempo traveller to cross, and the bridge was washed by rising water. We transferred into an open jeep and crossed the river before continuing to camp. Even before we had started walking, the mountains had reminded us of an important truth: nature decides the route.

When we reached camp, we received the devastating confirmation that mountaineer Nirmal “Nims” Purja had died after an avalanche struck an expedition on Broad Peak. The news cast a momentary silence over many trekkers and was a sobering reminder of the power and unpredictability of the mountains. The avalanche struck Broad Peak on 30 July 2026, and the deaths of the climbers were confirmed on 1 August.

Day 2: Khanjer to Yolling, Sunshine, Meadows and Tommy

Our first day of trekking took us from Khanjer to Yolling. We were joined by an unexpected companion, a dog who stayed with us throughout the trek.

Someone named the dog Tommy. We later discovered that Tommy was female, but the name had already stuck. This resulted in plenty of teasing for the person who had named her, along with friendly advice to be more careful when naming any future children.

After crossing a small bridge and completing one significant climb, the trail became gentler. Farmlands gradually gave way to broad, open meadows.

Although it was one of our shorter trekking days, the intense sun made it challenging. With almost no trees for shade, many of us began feeling the effects of the heat. Ankur suggested carrying a towel, dipping it into the small streams along the trail and using it to cool our faces, necks and heads. It was simple advice, but extremely effective.

The trail was also dotted with purple and pink fleece flowers. When the wind moved across them, or our shoes brushed against them, they released a delicate fragrance. That scent stayed with us for several days, like the valley’s natural welcome.

 

Day 3: Yolling to Zardong, Life Across the Grasslands

From the third day onward, our trekking distances increased to approximately 12 to 14 kilometres a day.

The route from Yolling to Zardong crossed vast grasslands where we saw sheep, goats, cows and yaks. We learned that shepherds bring their animals into the valley because the mountain grass is highly nutritious. By mid-August or early September, they begin descending to lower altitudes before snowfall makes the valley difficult to inhabit or cross.

Partway through the day, a playful shepherd dog joined us. It followed the group for quite some distance, clearly more interested in our food and company than in returning home. During one of our breaks, a shepherd finally caught it and told us that he had been searching for the dog for several days. The dog, however, did not appear particularly pleased about being found. It seemed convinced that travelling with a trekking group and its supply of snacks was a much better arrangement.

Gajendra also warned us not to go too far ahead, even when the path appeared clear. Shepherd dogs are extremely territorial and protective of their animals. If they do not recognise someone, they can become aggressive.

Reaching Zardong required a steep final climb. By then, I had also learned two practical lessons. Never try new socks on a trek without testing them first, and if the water does not taste right, do not continue drinking it. Blisters, rashes and an upset stomach are companions no trekker wants. Also, one of my fellow trekker shoe gave way inspite of checking it few days back and eventually she did a juggad of putting socks over the shoe to keep it in place.

 Day 4: Zardong to Palpu, The River Tests Us

The route from Zardong to Palpu via Kesar Yon Choo was one of the more demanding sections. We were gaining altitude, negotiating steep ascents and descents, and walking across increasingly marshy terrain.

Then came the river crossings.

By the time we reached the first river, it was afternoon. The current was strong and the water was freezing. Gajendra crossed repeatedly to help all 24 of us reach the other side safely.

We had to move quickly because our feet began going numb almost immediately. After every crossing, we rushed towards dry ground, rubbed our feet to restore circulation and covered them with warm sand.

The river also demanded a few sacrifices. One trekker lost a slipper. Another decided that throwing his shoes across the stream would be easier than carrying them. Unfortunately, the shoes did not follow the intended direction and disappeared into the current.

After crossing several streams, some of us began following the dogs. They seemed to know instinctively where the water was shallower and the footing more secure. At that moment, the most experienced river guides in our group were travelling on four legs.

Near Palpu, we spotted wild strawberries. That night, rain began falling over the campsite, signalling a change in the weather.

Day 5: Palpu to Gompa, Near the Origin of the Valley

The next morning was cloudy and drizzly as we trekked towards the area near the origin of Miyar Valley. Several more stream crossings awaited us. Surprisingly, the morning water did not feel as painfully cold as it had the previous afternoon.

We did not continue all the way to the actual origin because the trail had become extremely rocky and we were already behind schedule.

The summit area was unlike the sharp mountain peaks one often imagines. It was relatively flat, with small, crystal-clear glacial ponds through which the bottom could be seen. Majestic mountains surrounded us, while the river flowed forcefully through the valley.

It was a place that made you want to stay, but the changing weather told us to keep moving.

As we descended towards Gompa, the previous night’s rain made the ground even marshier, and additional streams had appeared. Our trek leader informed us that the camp was on higher ground rather than close to the river because continued rain could result in flash flooding.

By afternoon, the sky had cleared, giving us a beautiful night for stargazing. In the middle of the night, however, heavy rain returned. The mountains can change their mind very quickly.

 Day 6: Gompa to Tharang, The Valley Falls Silent

The route from Gompa to Tharang became one of my favourite parts of the trek.

The cloudy and cooler weather was a welcome relief after several days under the harsh sun. Birds appeared among the shrubs, and the trail was filled with fleece flowers, poppies and edelweiss.

At one point, I stopped and closed my eyes. Surrounded by mountains, I could hear the river flowing and birds calling from the shrubs. There were no vehicles, notifications or hurried conversations. There was only the sound of water, wings and wind.

It was one of those rare moments when silence did not mean the absence of sound. It meant being able to hear everything that normally goes unnoticed. The experience was both mesmerising and deeply peaceful.

Tharang was also our most comfortable campsite. The ground was flat and dry, and the surrounding views were beautiful.

To our amusement, the playful shepherd dog from the third day had escaped again and rejoined us. When the shepherd came that evening, he managed to call back the other dogs, but this particular one ran around the campsite refusing to cooperate. Eventually, the shepherd gave up and left it with us for the night.

Later, we heard shepherd dogs barking and running in the distance. Our new companion took its responsibility as a guard very seriously. Tommy, being more accustomed to human comforts, chose the warmth of a tent.

Our guide explained that wolves are sometimes found in the region. With no fences around the grazing animals, shepherds depend heavily on their dogs to protect the herds at night.

Protected by our four-legged guards, we slept peacefully.

Day 7: Tharang to Khanjer, The Mountains Disappear into Mist

Rain returned during the early hours. When we woke, mist and low clouds surrounded our campsite.

The view was breathtaking, but the weather made our final descent to Khanjer considerably more difficult. The trail was wet, rocky and slippery. Visibility was poor, and at times we had to stop to identify the correct path.

For much of the previous days, I had enjoyed walking by myself. On this final stretch, however, I was grateful to have others around me. The weather reinforced an important lesson: when visibility is poor, it is always safer to remain with the group. In mist-covered mountains, even a familiar-looking trail can disappear quickly.

We reached Khanjer at around 11 AM and immediately began preparing for the journey back to Manali. Mountain roads can become difficult as the weather changes, so leaving early was important.

Just like that, our days of walking began turning into memories.

 🎲 More Than a Trek

The scenery was unforgettable, but the people and animals gave the journey its personality.

Every evening, after reaching camp and resting our tired legs, we played cards, UNO and dumb charades. Our trek leader and guide told us that we were a physically fit group and were making very good time. We joked that perhaps our real motivation was simply to reach camp early enough for the evening entertainment.

Behind the entire experience was the hard work of the Indiahikes support team. They travelled alongside us, sometimes with mules, and then pitched our tents and prepared meals after reaching camp. Their effort made me reflect on the realities of mountain life.

Modern amenities may have reached some villages, but many communities remain isolated. Life in these valleys is demanding for people and animals alike, and the resilience of those who live and work there deserves enormous respect.

🏔️What Miyar Valley Left With Me

You can prepare your backpack, train your body, study the route and invest in good equipment. Yet the mountains will always introduce something you did not plan for: intense sunshine, freezing rivers, marshy trails, heavy rain, thick mist, playful dogs, lost shoes or a moment of complete stillness beside a river.

Miyar Valley challenged me physically and mentally, but it also brought laughter, companionship and perspective.

It reminded me that nature does not adjust itself to our plans. We adjust to it.

Perhaps that is why we return to the mountains. Not simply to complete a trail, but to be humbled, surprised and reminded of how small we are within a landscape so vast.

✨Signing Off

The mountains may test your strength, but they reward you with something far more valuable: humility, wonder and stories that remain long after the trail has ended.

 

For more information: https://indiahikes.com/miyar-valley-trek